*Ad in cooperation with Rheinhessenwein e.V. and Gourmet Connection*

I was so excited as the invitation of Rheinhessenwein and Gourmet Connection for the “Rhoihessian Cooking duel” arrived. Last year I was already invited and unfortunately could not participate. I´m so grateful that I was asked again this year. As the day of the Cooking contest got closer, I became more and more excited. I have never participated in such a cooking battle and this contest will be even filmed. Am I up to it at all, do I manage to cook the dish of a chef without any recipe and even stay within the given time of 90 minutes?

The trip to Mainz is an emotional roller coaster. On the one hand, it’s a bit like coming home for me, as I spent many years of my youth in Mainz. On the other hand, the excitement increases the closer I get. In times of struggle, having a resilient spirit becomes an asset that seems to transform challenges into opportunities for growth. I always view every new challenge as an opportunity to grow, and I try to master it as well as I can. Now I’m looking forward to the Challenge, but of course, I also have a bit of stage fright. I leave the highway in the direction Mainz-Finthen to the four-star superior hotel Atrium Mainz, where the “Rhoihessian Cooking duel” takes place. At the end of the post, I have a little surprise for you: the almost original recipe “Variations of black salsify á la Carl Grünewald”. Let’s Go for it!

Rhoihessian Cooking duel

At the “Rhoihessian Cooking duel”, Carl Grünewald, head chef of the Hotel Atrium Mainz, challenges us. The challenge is to taste and smell an unfamiliar dish without a list of ingredients or a recipe, and to cook it the next day from scratch, just like in Kitchen Impossible by Tim Mälzer. A jury consisting of Carl Grünewald himself, Sous-Chef Sebastian Schmidt, Alex from Rheinhessenwein and Lisa from Gourmet Connection, then decide how close the recooked dish comes to the original and which of them will win at the end. Fortunately, we do not need to go for shopping, instead we are provided with the ingredients. But as a challenge there are some ingredients on the table who have nothing to do with the recipe. The pressure is rising, since there is also a very special prize. The winner receives selected Rheinhessen wines sent home for one year.

ENJOY RHEINHESSEN

As part of the culinary special “Enjoy Rheinhessen,” chefs from the Rheinhessen region create innovative regional and seasonal cuisine and serve it with the corresponding Rheinhessen wines. Suppose you would also like to enjoy the culinary special visit rheinhessen.de. The special offer can be booked until November 6. Twenty-four local restaurants create delicious dishes from their favorite regional products, accompanied by matching wines from local winemakers. I have already been here on a press trip Rheinhessen geniessen and can recommend this special offer to you, as Rheinhessen is worth a visit.

ATRIUM HOTEL MAINZ

Arriving on the outskirts of Mainz-Finthen, I move into my huge luxuriously furnished deluxe room at the owner-run Atrium Hotel Mainz. The room has exclusive furnishings and a high-quality elegant design. I am flashed of the very comfortably furnished room with so many loving details that provide a real comfortable feeling. First, I put my suitcase in the walk-in closet. The shutters are closed to keep the room from heating up in the heat. Opening the shutters, I am greeted by an outstanding  view from French balcony. I close the shutters since the room is air-conditioned and as soon as the windows are opened, the air-conditioning turns off automatically.

I’m looking forward sleeping and snuggling up in the huge comfy bed tonight. The highlight of my room is the open walk-in shower. An espresso machine is smiling at me, I’ll will for sure use it the next morning. There’s even a snack bar on the floor with cakes, nuts, and other tasty snacks. I would have loved to try the newly built lounge with bar, as well as the indoor pool, sauna, and the stock library, but we have a tight schedule. After a quick refreshment under the cool shower, I head to the meeting point at the Genusswerkstatt.

GET-TOGETHER

At our get-together, I meet my fellow food bloggers Petra from Holla die Kochfee and Michael from Salzig, Süss, Lecker. I’m very happy as I already know both of them. We are different, but we all have one thing in common, the love of cooking. In addition, the Super Team with Lisa from Gourmet Connection, Alex from Rheinhessenwein, Alba from Stabilefilms.com our videographer, and Chef Carl Grünewald are already present. We toast to the exciting days with a Rheinhessen sparkling wine. The Riesling Brut sparkling wine from Winemaker Knewitz is fresh with perfectly balanced fruit, fine and lightly creamy. The Knewitz winery is located in Appenheim, Rheinhessen, and the family focuses on natural wine-growing methods. They own the most chalky terroir in Germany and their wines are characterized by a distinct minerality with edginess.

THE INTERVIEW

After the welcome with the sparkling wine, we are directly wired and get our clip-on mics. Alba sets the light and camera as she will film us this evening and tomorrow morning. The atmosphere is relaxed and pleasant, as Alba creates a relaxing vibe with her friendly nature. Nevertheless, it’s an unusual situation for me. Lisa, Alex, and Alba interviewed each of us one by one. As it’s my turn, they ask me a few questions and then everything is already in the cast. Alba says it was perfect and I don’t need a second try. Wow, I didn’t think that would happen. Now I’m excited to see the final result and as soon as I get the video, I’ll include it in this post.

THE “GENUSSWERKSTATT” IN MAINZ-FINTHEN

We take a seat at a minimalistic table in the cozy Genusswerkstatt, which has been designed for only 20 guests. The atmosphere is informal and the furnishing minimalistic with accessories made of natural materials. Carl serves an exceptional unfiltered and sulphite free Demeter wine, “Erdreich” from the ecological Schmitt winery in Flörsheim-Dalsheim. A cuvée of Scheurebe grape and yellow Muscatel, the aroma is something between dried fruit and a bouquet of dried wild herbs. The wine is very dry, but hugely concentrated. Erdreich is a typical orange wine, spontaneously fermented on the mash and aged in wooden barrels. A full-bodied natural earthy wine of a very special kind and we will realize soon that it corresponds perfectly to our still secret dish.

Variations of black salsify á la Carl Grünewald

The ultimate dish is served by chef Carl Grünewald himself. Variations of black salsify with garden cress are presented on a beautiful handmade stoneware plate. Never cooked, never eaten, never heard of. Carl created this dish especially for the special event “Enjoy Rheinhessen” and chose the perfect matching wine. If you also want to enjoy his variation, then you should come to the Genusswerksatt until the beginning of November. Oh my god, black salsify, also known as winter asparagus – an almost forgotten root vegetable!

We are quite amazed and know immediately, it´s a real challenge to cook this dish as exactly as possible. This simple and yet very complex dish is us a huge mystery to us. Carl has tickled the special out of this simple product. He sources the organic black salsify and organic cress from Julius Hattemer’s Kronenhof in Gau-Algesheim. His motto is “Reduce to the max”. Innovative and creative at the highest level.

STEP-BY-STEP ANALYSIS

The analysis is absolutely essential, I want to do this properly and give myself the necessary time. But how is the preparation? What do I have to pay attention to? What ingredients make up the sauce that turned out to be a vinaigrette? Will I manage to recreate this dish as exactly as possible? Questions over questions and we smell, taste and try. In the meantime, we forget that we’re competitors and exchange ideas here and there, but are reminded that we have to come up with it ourselves. I have never prepared black salsify before. From my Mainz time, I remembered black salsify in a rich cream sauce, but this creation is miles away from that. I try to taste the different flavors and note my impressions in the book and shoot a couple of photos.

THE DRAW

The tasting is about to end. As we will cook one after the other the next day, a drawing of numbers takes place now. Alex, our draw fee, writes the numbers 1, 2 and 3 on small pieces of paper and throws them into the air. The papers tumble onto the table and each of us grabs one. Michael pulls number one and is therefore the first to start cooking tomorrow. Petra and I follow in half-hour intervals.

CONVIVIAL EVENING AT THE Á LA CARTE RESTAURANT ADAGIO

We then meet right next door at the a la carte restaurant Adagio and enjoy the evening in a warm get-together. The atmosphere is very pleasant and we have a great time. Adagio means “comfortable, cozy” in Italian and the atmosphere here is just the same. I am fascinated by the beautiful lights that hang from the ceiling and create a cozy atmosphere. The menu is small but exquisite, which is just how I love it. We are awarded with exquisite dishes made from delicious fresh ingredients. I can see the “clear handwriting” of Carl Grünewald here in the Adagio Restaurant. Nothing is fancy or over-flavored, just pure and tasty cuisine at a perfect balance between cost and quality.

DINING IN THE A LA CARTE RESTAURANT ADAGIO

For the starter, we are served a glass of Jean Baptiste 2021 Riesling Kabinett from the Gunderloch winery in Nackenheim. On the tongue, this semi-dry white wine shows a skillful combination of high acidity and distinctive sweetness. A very easy drinking every day wine. I do not choose a starter, but in fact, the ceviche of char looks very tasty and is highly complimented. I must say as a ceviche lover I regret my decision.

For the main course, I opt for a flat iron steak with sautéed onions and a Pinot Blanc from Wagner-Stempel Winery in Siefersheim. The Pinot Blanc has a fresh, acidity and fine minerality. For dessert, how else, I choose a crème bruleé and am served a dry and fruity Sauvignon Blanc from the Luff winery in Jugenheim. We are pampered, to be able to perform well tomorrow.

CARL GRÜNEWALD – RADICALLY LOCAL

Chef Carl Grünewald creates a unique 10-course menu in the Genusswerkstatt restaurant, reduced to the essential, with selected ingredients from local and seasonal products. In his pure, superior cuisine, he focuses on less instead more, but with the full flavor of the ingredients. He accentuates the original taste of the products with his very personal clear handwriting.

Sustainability, simplicity of the dishes with the highest quality, and the valuation of food play a huge role. The products are purchased mainly from the region and preferably of organic quality. He even manages his dishes without lemon and pepper using ingredients that are only produced in Germany or Austria. No other products are served, just radically local. Great wines from the region are served to match the 10-course menu.

BREAKFAST AT ALLEGRO

The following morning, we first strengthen over breakfast in the large and spacious Allegro Restaurant. The nerves are on edge and the tension is climbing. It’s hard to imagine having breakfast, as I am totally focused on the dish, especially this sauce/vinaigrette. That’s a shame, since the breakfast buffet is really impressive and offers a wide range of choices for all tastes. A rich continental breakfast buffet with live cooking and lots of delicious treats for vegans as well. In addition, there is a variety of gluten-free alternatives.

INTRODUCTION TO THE KITCHEN

First of all, we get a tour of the kitchen and a short briefing. The cooking here is done with a convection oven and that is quite a challenge, because I have never prepared food in one before. Carl has already set up our workstations, there is a set of sharp knives at hand, and we put on our cooking aprons, which were given by Rheinhessenwein, and our notebooks. Since we start cooking after each other with half an hour of overlapping time, we first have a Pet Nat to calm our nerves.

Pet Nat is the short name for Pétillant Naturel and is the most original way to produce sparkling wine. Pétillant Naturel means “naturally sparkling”. During production, fermenting and unfiltered must is filled into sparkling wine bottles together with the yeast and tightly sealed with a crown cork. In the bottle, then, the musts finish fermenting, and the yeast works, converting sugar to alcohol and natural carbonic acid. The carbonic acid is unable to release and a fresh sparkle is created. Super refreshing and a great alternative to sparkling wine.

Rhoihessian Cooking duel

Finally, it’s my turn.I first look around, seeing the ingredients for the first time. The naughty Carl has cheated a lot of oils, bottles of vinegar, and other ingredients to mislead us. Many congratulations dear Carl, you have indeed mastered this. As I finally start cooking, I only have eyes for the salsify. Well, black salsify, makes quite a lot of work and sticks like hell when cutting and dyeing anything, not only the hands. So put on the gloves and it is time to peel. The peeled salsify looks like white asparagus. The taste is slightly similar to asparagus but spicier and nuttier.

I read online that the salsify should be cleaned first with a brush, then peeled, and immediately poured with boiling hot water, and then blanched. I did that and unfortunately, it took me too much time. At home, I peeled them directly and then just kept them in vinegar water in between till I was done with the peeling, this worked out perfectly. According to Carl, I could have left those steps out and I could have been a little faster. For me, this made it a time challenge, as the plan is to bake the salsify for 40-50 minutes in the oven to tickle out the sweetness and to create roasted flavors. In the end, they’re only in the convection oven for half an hour. To get them cooked up a bit, I braise them again briefly in the pan with a bit of butter.

The notes I made state to use of a Bunsen burner to create roasted aromas! But because of the time, I do not even ask for a Bunsen burner. In the end, it was a good job, at home I tried it with the Bunsen burner and the salsify popped a bit. The cooking time passes unbelievably quickly. Now all I have to do is, with shaking hands, quickly arrange four plates that are already waiting under the heat bridge as beautifully and as close as possible to the original. Above you can see the original from Carl on the right and my version on the left photo. I have to bring the Plates one floor higher to the jury and then after a short interview, everything is over. The jury judges the taste and arrangement of the dishes and then decides who wins.

“COOKING DUEL IN RHOIHESSIAN” WINNER

Michael, Petra, and I meet again in the kitchen for the prize-giving ceremony. The winning dish of Zweierlei Schwarzwurzeln comes from Petra and so she not only wins first place but is sent selected Rheinhessen wines home for one year. I won second place, the jury says that my dish is very tasty, but the vinaigrette is not close enough to the original. Michael wins the third place, read his review here (in German). Nevertheless, we are all winners, as we had a lot of fun. After the award giving, Carl gives us the vinaigrette ingredients and explains how he prepares the black salsify. I cooked it again and now the recipe is finally here.

INGREDIENTS VARIATIONS OF BLACK SALSIFY

1 kg salsify of equal size

50 g butter

1 tsp salt

INGREDIENTS VINAIGRETTE Á LA CARL GRÜNWALD

60 g vinegar, 5% acid

30 g blossom honey*

8 g salt

30 g verjus*

30 g water

5 g very finely chopped shallots

(I used 15g)

TOPPING

1 tsp organic camelina oil* per plate

1 package organic garden cress*

PREPARATION OF BLACK SALSIFY FROM THE OVEN

Preheat the oven to 200°.

Peel the salsify with a peeler*, be sure to wear gloves as the milky juice is very sticky and will dye your hands. Place in a container of vinegar water to keep them white. Put one half in a baking dish, sprinkle with pieces of butter and salt and bake for 50 minutes, turning the salsify again and again drizzling at the same time with the melted butter. Cut the roasted salsify in half down the middle. Set aside.

PREPARATION BLACK SALSIFY SALAD

Cut the other half into fine cubes. The cubes of black salsify give the dish not only visually the final touch. These stay raw. Set aside.

PREPARATION VINAIGRETTE

Mix all the ingredients and place the raw salsify in the vinaigrette.

ARRANGEMENT

Place six pre-cut salsify sticks from the oven on a plate, and put a few tablespoons of the raw salsify salad on top. Drizzle with a little more vinaigrette, top with organic garden cress, and top with a few drops of organic camelina oil. Serve immediately.

As an accompaniment to the dish, I chose a Rheinhessen Pinot Gris from Winery Winter from Dittelsheim.

BEFARMAYID!

Susan

The items marked with * are affiliate links, referral links. If you buy through this link, I get a small commission. The price stays the same for you and you can easily support my efforts. A big thank you ♥

Save the recipe for later on Pinterest!

At this point, I would like to thank Gourmet-Connection and Rheinhessenwein for the invitation. Lisa and Alex, you made this challenge easier for me with your great easy-going personality. Thanks also to Carl Grünewald for the hospitality and your always friendly engagement. My thanks also go to the Atrium Hotel Mainz, I felt very comfortable at your place. Thanks also to our videographer Alba from stabilefilms.com I am very excited about the final result. Also, my dear fellows Michael from Salzig, süß und lecker, and Petra from Holla die Kochfee, I had a great and very pleasant time with you.

Have you cooked this or maybe another delicious recipe of mine? Feel free to leave me a comment below. If you tag your picture on Instagram with @labsalliebe  and use the hashtag #labsalliebe, I won’t miss a post and will be happy to leave you a comment as well. Can’t wait to see your creations.

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