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Rheingau Gourmet Festival – “Franconian Lunch” with KUNO 1408 from Würzburg

Rheingau Gourmet Festival - "Franconian Lunch" with KUNO 1408 from Würzburg

*Press Trip to the Rheingau Gourmet & Wine Festival*

The Rheingau Gourmet & Wine Festival is one of Germany’s most prestigious culinary events. Every year, michelin-starred chefs, renowned winemakers, and gourmets from all over the world gather in the Rheingau region at the Hotel Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Eltville, to experience extraordinary moments.

Having attended in previous years with chefs like Peter Gast* and Toni Mörwald*, I was thrilled to return this year for the Rheingau Gourmet Festival – “Franconian Lunch” with KUNO 1408 from Würzburg.

Anyone interested in haute cuisine, Michelin-starred chefs, fine wines, and gourmet events in the Rheingau should definitely experience the Rheingau Gourmet & Wine Festival.

Watch my Reel on Instagram

A SPARKLING WELCOME

Together with my dear friend Tina from Mainhomestaging, I arrive at the Hotel Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim. It feels a bit like a reunion of the food blogger community. I meet Susanne from the blog Lindenthalerin, with whom I have already enjoyed several wonderful press trips. Nicole from Fressmoppel is there as well – her event recommendations are always a great source of inspiration for me.

A new face for me is Christian from the podcast “The Flying Schlemmer”, where he talks with Michelin-star chefs about their culinary philosophy and shares their recipes. The perfect start to the Franken Lunch at the Rheingau Gourmet & Wine Festival begins in style in the festival tent with a glass of Geldermann Crémant (Rosé or Brut) – a sparkling welcome to a day full of great food, wine, and inspiring conversations.

FRANKEN MEETS RHEINGAU

What happens when two visionary Michelin-star chefs sharpen their knives to give their Franconian homeland a new look? The answer comes from Robin Hofmann* and Patrick Grieshaber*. In an impressive collaboration, the two talented chefs give Franconian cuisine a fresh, modern twist while still respecting its traditions.

Their menu follows a clear philosophy built on three key ideas:

  • Seasonal Freshness: Using only the best local ingredients.
  • Pure Aromas: Letting the natural flavors shine.
  • Exciting Contrasts: Playing with different textures and temperatures.

THE GOURMET MENU & WINE PAIRINGS

2023 White Burgundy, Winery Florian Reuss

Starter

Two types of Spessart char
Pickled radishes | Cucumber broth | Jalapeño ice cream | Gold-of-pleasure oil

2023 Randersacker Pfülben Silvaner VDP. GG 
Winery Schmitts Kinder

2023 Würzburg Stein-Harfe Silvaner VDP.GG
Winery Bürgerspital zum hl. Geist

2020 Iphofen Kammer Silvaner VDP.GG
Winery Hans Wirsching

2019 Sulzfeld Maustal Silvaner VDP.GG 
Winery Zehnthof Luckert

Intermediate course

Mushroom cappuccino
Steamed herb dumpling

2024 Würzburg Stein White Burgundy VDP.ERSTE LAGE
Winery Bürgerspital zum hl. Geist

2023 Chardonnay trocken
Weingut Florian Reuss

2018 Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg Riesling VDP.GG 
Weingut Hans Wirsching

Main course

Filet Rossini from Franconian pasture-raised beef
Roasted foie gras | pickled truffles | truffles |
Baby carrots | Rösti

2008 Castell Schlossberg Riesling VDP.GG 
Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt

2022 Randesacker Hohenroth Pinot Noir VDP.
Weingut Schmitts Kinder

2018 Merlot*** 
Weingut Zehnthof Luckert

Dessert

Pine Forest
Spruce ice cream | Pine cream | Green apple | Fir tree

2016 Kugelspiel Silvaner late harvest wine
Fürstlich Casteell’sches Domänenamt

Lavazza Café
Gerlosteiner mineral water

MODERATION BY SOMMELIÈRE MIRIAM FISCHER

Miriam Fischer, Head Sommelière of the Kronenschlösschen, led us through the lunch with charm and expertise. Her lively introductions brought the story of each wine to life.

One of the most special aspects of the event was having the winemakers there in person. They shared personal insights into their winemaking philosophy, the unique vineyard locations, and the “terroir” that makes Franconian wine so distinct. This turned every course into more than just a meal—it was a cultural deep dive. It was the perfect marriage of high-end Franconian cuisine and world-class wines.

PERFECT WINE PAIRING FROM FRANCONIAN WINERIES

The wine pairings for this lunch took us on a scenic tour through Franconia, one of Germany’s most exciting and diverse wine regions.

Stretching along the Main River, the vineyards here are defined by unique soils like shell limestone, keuper, and red sandstone. These minerals give the wines their unmistakable character. Franconia is especially famous for its VDP.Erste Lage and VDP.Grosse Lage (the German equivalent of Premier and Grand Cru). These vineyards often sit on steep, sun-drenched terraces overlooking the river valleys, providing the perfect climate for high-quality grapes.

The wines presented during the lunch were a stunning reflection of this unique “terroir”—elegant, powerful, and deeply rooted in their home soil. So let’s meet the Winemakers.

STARTING THE MENU WITH WINERY FLORIAN REUS

Florian Reus is not only a dedicated winemaker but also a passionate long-distance runner. It’s a background you can actually taste in his wines: they possess endurance, structure, and a very clear focus.

Based in Würzburg, this young estate has quickly made a name for itself with characterful white wines. The secret to their success is the shell limestone soil (Muschelkalk) of the region, which gives the wines a unique, salty minerality. With a modern touch, Reus creates wines that perfectly balance freshness and elegance.

Two highlights from the 2023 vintage stood out:

  • 2023 White Burgundy (Pinot Blanc): Served as our welcome wine. It has an inviting nutty and smoky nose, combined with juicy flavors of apple and pear. Its salty finish perfectly reflects the Würzburg terroir and made for an elegant start.
  • 2023 Chardonnay (Dry): This was the ideal partner for the legendary Mushroom Cappuccino. With notes of citrus, brioche, and roasted nuts, its creamy texture hugged the earthy flavors of the mushrooms beautifully. The long, mineral finish completed the experience perfectly.

WINERY SCHMITTS KINDER

When a winery can look back on over 300 years of history, you can feel that heritage in every sip. The traditional Schmitts Kinder estate from Randersacker manages some of the most prestigious vineyards along the Main River. In this area, steep terraces of shell limestone create wines with a truly unique, mineral soul.

Here are the highlights from the menu and their perfect wine partners:

  • 2023 Randersacker Pfülben Silvaner VDP.GG: This was paired with the Two types of Spessart char: cured with fennel and juniper, and pickled in brine then lightly torched. The dish featured fermented radishes, a cool cucumber broth, and a total “surprise factor”—jalapeño ice cream. The ice cream’s subtle heat and icy texture created a thrilling contrast to the mild fish.

The Pairing: This Silvaner is a true “Grand Cru” (VDP.GG). With aromas of ripe apple and zesty lime, its vibrant acidity and mineral structure balanced the spicy jalapeño perfectly without overpowering the delicate fish. One of my personal favorites

  • 2022 Randersacker Hohenroth Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) VDP: Served with the Beef Filet Rossini. This brilliant ruby-red wine features aromas of wild cherry, dark berries, and a hint of smoke. On the palate, it’s youthful and spicy with velvety tannins. Its elegant structure held up beautifully against the rich, flavorful pasture-raised beef.

WINERY HANS WIRSCHING

When Andrea Wirsching talks about her home in Iphofen (Steigerwald), history comes to life. Millions of years ago, geological shifts revealed the layers that today form the foundation for their world-class wines: the Trias. Especially the Keuper soil, filled with ancient sediments and plant fossils, gives the wines from this VDP estate their unmistakable depth and structure. As one of Franconia’s most traditional houses, Hans Wirsching stands for a deep commitment to “terroir,” which reaches its peak in their VDP.Grosse Gewächse (Grand Cru) wines.

Here are the liquid treasures from Iphofen and their role in the menu:

  • 2018 Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Riesling VDP.GG: Served with the Mushroom Cappuccino (Kuno 1408’s signature dish). The dish features an airy foam over a creamy mushroom essence, paired with a steamed dumpling filled with chicken farce and herbs.

The Pairing: This Riesling handles the play of textures brilliantly. The famous Julius-Echter-Berg vineyard, known for its sunny slopes and Keuper soil, produces powerful, structured wines. On the nose you find ripe peach and delicate citrus notes, while the palate shows precision, freshness, and lively acidity. This vibrant structure creates the perfect contrast to the creamy, earthy mushroom flavors. My personal favorite 

  • 2020 Iphöfer Kammer Silvaner VDP.GG: Paired with the Two types of Spessart char this Silvaner represents cool elegance. The bouquet reminds me of quince and pear, while the palate is defined by a spicy, piquant minerality. The refreshing lightness of this Silvaner harmonizes perfectly with the delicate texture of the fish.

WINERY ZEHNTHOF LUCKERT

Set in a historic estate dating back to 1558, the Luckert family is busy making wine history. Based in Sulzfeld am Main, Zehnthof Luckert is a family-run, Naturland-certified organic estate that holds a unique world record: they are the only winemakers to cultivate all four Silvaner varieties (Green, Yellow, Red, and Blue). Their wines are purist, full of character, and deeply rooted in the local terroir.

Here were the stars of the Luckert collection during our lunch:

  • 2019 Sulzfeld Maustal Silvaner VDP.GG: Paired with the Two types of Spessart char. This is a truly “noble” Franconian wine made from vines over 60 years old. It has a spicy and slightly smoky nose, while the palate is creamy and juicy with a vibrant minerality. The depth of this “Grand Cru” meets the delicate fish as a true equal. A pairing close to my heart
  • 2018 Merlot***: Paired with the Beef Filet Rossini. This dish was pure decadence: butter-tender Franconian pasture-raised beef topped in classic Rossini style with seared foie gras, pickled Port wine truffles, and a rich truffle jus. Served with sweet baby carrots and a golden, crispy potato rösti for the perfect crunch.

The Pairing: The Merlot*** acted as a powerful yet elegant partner. With intense aromas of dark berries and fine spice, it had the exact structure and density needed for such an opulent dish. The velvety tannins flattered the foie gras, while the wine’s depth beautifully extended the earthy truffle flavors. An absolute “Love it” experience

WINERY BÜRGERSPITAL ZUM HL. GEIST

Some places allow you to literally taste history, and the Bürgerspital in Würzburg is one of them. Managed as a foundation for over 710 years, it is one of Germany’s oldest and most traditional wine estates. Under the charming leadership of director Karl Brand, the estate produces elegant Silvaners and Rieslings that carry the pride of Franconian culture, and the iconic Bocksbeutel bottle to the rest of the world.

Here is how these classics from the famous “Stein” vineyard performed in our culinary dialogue:

  • 2023 Würzburger Stein-Harfe Silvaner VDP.GG: Paired with the Two types of Spessart char. The Stein-Harfe is a historic “monopole” site (exclusively owned by the estate) known for excellence since the 17th century. This wine, made from old vines and partially aged in wooden barrels, shows impressive complexity, fine spice, and a very distinct minerality.
  • 2024 Würzburger Stein White Burgundy (Pinot Blanc) VDP.Erste Lage: Paired with the Mushroom Cappuccino. This wine is a prime example of elegance. Aromas of yellow fruits meet floral and nutty notes. On the palate, it feels juicy, fresh, and lively, with a beautiful balance between fruit and acidity—making it a sophisticated companion for the aromatic mushroom dish.

FÜRSTLICH CASTELL’SCHE DOMÄNE

When discussing Silvaner in Germany, Fürstlich Castell’sche Domäne is the name that stands above all. As pioneers of this grape variety, the Castell family – led by experts like Marius Walter—manages some of Franconia’s most exclusive vineyard sites. Their wines are famous for their expression, elegance, and incredible aging potential, consistently ranking at the very top of German winemaking.

Two matured rarities provided the crowning glory of our menu:

  • 2008 Casteller Schlossberg Riesling VDP.GG: Served with the Beef Filet Rossini. This matured “giant” from the Grand Cru Schlossberg site impresses with its cool minerality, fine earthiness, and notes of ripe stone fruit. Its structure and elegant maturity provided a magnificent counterpoint to the intensity of the pasture-raised beef. A treasure for Riesling fans like me
  • 2016 Casteller Kugelspiel Silvaner Auslese: Paired with the “Pine Forest” dessert. This dish was like a walk through the woods—a refreshingly creative composition using flavors from nature. Creamy spruce ice cream and velvety pine cream captured the ethereal spice of the forest, while the zesty acidity of Granny Smith apple added a light, lively touch.

The Pairing: The dessert was matched with a noble sweet Auslese from the Kugelspiel vineyard (named after a historic natural bowling green). The wine is dense, intense, and elegantly sweet, but maintains a perfect balance thanks to its vibrant acidity. It was a perfectly harmonious finale to our Franconian journey and my personal “Aha!” moment of the afternoon

SPECIAL THANKS & CLOSING THOUGHTS

This day in the Rheingau was truly a love letter to Franconia. A huge thank you goes to Mr. Ullrich and his daughter Johanna from Hotel Kronenschlösschen for the flawless organization, and to Gourmet Connection for the kind invitation.

The technical precision of chefs Hofmann* and Grieshaber*, paired with world-class wines from Reuss, Schmitt’s Kinder, Wirsching, Luckert, Bürgerspital, and Castell, proved one thing: Franconia is world-class.

Until next time in the Rheingau!

Susan

 

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